Wednesday, May 5, 2021

Sailing South aboard Lucy III: 2020-21 (Part III - returning North)

 Beaufort Docks, Beaufort, South Carolina:  May 5, 2021  (day 2)

https://www.google.com/maps/place/34%C2%B042'57.0%22N+76%C2%B039'54.4%22W/@34.7158474,-76.66731

Tour bus.  Does it double as the Night Bus? (Harry Potter reference)

A few birds just hanging around the docks.

Marc-  We are delayed here due to weather.  We spent the day exploring this charming old seaside town.  There is a serious Maritime Museum on Front Street as well as a wooden boat building facility.  Many historic as well as nice old homes line the streets here.  We also visited many of the shops and one breakfast restaurant.

We saw several of these signs on the residential street here.  Everyone we met has been friendly.

The schooner Nina caught my eye.

Sue-  This is supposed to be an Ode to Marc that I had written for Valentine’s Day and/or his birthday (February 16), and should have posted then, but I didn’t.  I am leaving it as written, in the present tense.  It’s also some of my thoughts about boating.  I reserve the right to change some of these thoughts when this trip is done (actually I have changed some at this point, but that’s a story for another day).

This boat adventure is quite something.  The good is seeing new places and things every day.  The good is not feeling frantic nearly every minute of every day as I did at work.  Coverys was wonderful in many ways, but it was time to go.  The job changed so much/too much in the last few years.  Mostly there was more work than I could manage and I was always so far behind.  There were so many bad cases, and it was just a terrible feeling day in and day out.  No matter how long a day I put in I could never get on top of it.  I would finish up a big awful messy case and there were many more to catch up on.  It never stopped.  I was lucky to have the last 6 months with no new cases to clean up my work.  If not for Covid I would never have finished it.  Covid meant no trials and no in person meetings.  That bought me the time I needed.

It is good that Marc can fix all of our boat problems.  Because that is what boats are all about.  Like houses, things happen constantly.  He would not be able to fix a broken-in-half boat, but that has not happened yet.  It is pretty amazing that we got all the way to the Keys without going aground or having some other major disaster.  From South Carolina on South, we saw 2-3 wrecked boats in the ICW a day.  Down here in the Keys we see such things regularly, too.  Some of the wrecks are powerboats, but mostly they’re sailboats.  When we got to the South we realized that people can live on their boats year round, they don’t get hauled out in the Winter, and some people don’t take care of their boats.  So they eventually sink.  Though I think a lot of the wrecks we saw on the ICW probably ran into something and sunk.  On our trip South we had numerous engine problems.  After a while I was not surprised when they happened.  We never got into a situation where the engine was misbehaving or dying as we neared an abrupt drop, like a Niagara Falls kind of drop.  (That has happened before—the engine quit near a hydroelectric plant or some other place with a big drop off.  That was a little scary.  The girls were little then.  But somehow he got us out of that mess.)

Marc spoke with a mechanic at a marina during one of our stops.  Had he needed the mechanic to work on the engine we would have had to wait 3 weeks.  Which brings the following to mind.  You should not take a boat out anywhere very far from your neck of the woods, from where your friends can come rescue you, etc. unless you really know what you’re doing.  One of my friends at work, hearing that Marc and I were going to take this trip, said she would be afraid to do this.  She is a smart girl.  She should be afraid to do this UNLESS she was going with someone who really knew what he/she was doing.  I am with Marc, who really knows what he’s doing.  I learned this on our very first date.  We were sailing from Plymouth to Wellfleet, a 6 hour trip.  I was steering and he was in the cabin looking at the chart (before radar, electronic navigation in the cockpit, before cellphones, etc.).  He called up from the cabin and told me I should be seeing buoy #2 coming up soon.  I shined the flashlight (it was dark out because I was an hour late for this adventure) and what appeared but buoy #2!  I thought “Wow, he really knows what he’s doing.”  And when we finally got in to the anchorage, the harbormaster said “You came through this channel at night?”  It was a long channel.  Marc can read a chart.  He also has a sense of direction.  I can’t, and I don’t, and I marvel at this skill.

So my friend at work is right.  You should be afraid if you don’t know what you’re doing.  It’s easy to drive a boat around when the conditions are great and when the machinery works.  But when the weather conditions and/or electronics and engines act up, you can get into a big mess real quick.  A person who knows what actions to take when there is trouble is the person you want to be boating with.  In Marc’s case, he has a lifetime of knowledge of engines, electronics, wiring, plumbing, fixing/making/problem-solving the many things that can go wrong on a boat.  He uses all of that knowledge regularly on this boat, believe me!  He’s a real good person to be with.

We are buddy boating with Michael and Doreen.  They were very helpful and never annoyed when we would have engine problems. The guys help one another with boat projects, and that is a very nice thing.  Brother Brian Gilmartin always made himself available to listen to the engine problems and he did a great job helping diagnose and suggest treatments over the phone from his farm in Vermont.  I call him Lucy III’s cardiologist.  I call Mindy Donnelly Lucy III’s internist, as she is very knowledgeable about all aspects of the boat and boating.  She also can diagnose and treat engine problems, and take apart an engine and put it back together again!

There is no “real” bad re this trip.  There are the usual unpleasant things about living on a boat.  I am not talking about an ocean liner or a large boat.  I am talking about our boat, a 34 foot 1974 sailboat.  It is narrow and we are squished inside with all our stuff.  And we have plenty of stuff.  Lots of it is stuff the boat arguably needs:  a massive number of tools, life jackets, lines, life boat (I don’t think most people have a life boat unless they travel across an ocean, but we have one), lots of TP (can’t have too much of that in a pandemic), water, food, etc.  We bump into things on the boat regularly.  Marc is so familiar with the boat and loves it, yet hits his head regularly on the hatch or the speakers he installed for the satellite radio.  I have bumps and bruises limited to my arms and legs.  Over time you learn to avoid most of the hazards that cause the bumps and bruises, but you can never avoid them all.

Odors cannot be avoided on a boat.  Marc has become an expert toilet repair man.  He has installed a number of them on this boat.  They have gotten better and better over the years.  But we are still stuck with a potty that has a button.  You press the button to flush and there is a loud electric motor noise.  What a relief it will be to live in a house again and not hear that motor!  That noise bothers me more than about anything on this boat.  The smells are not great, either.  He is always throwing bathroom cleaner down the toilet to tone down the odors.  It’s the only thing that works.  After the first leg of the trip in the Fall that lasted 2 months, I remember feeling that the bathroom at home was so big.  It has a grown up sized sink and toilet, and it even has a bathtub and shower!!  I now think of our bathroom at home as being absolutely luxurious.

Another thing you need to know as a sailor is wind direction.  The wind determines a lot, of course.  Right now I am just thinking about where you tie your boat up, or where you toss out the anchor.  Knowing what you are doing in this regard is the difference between staying anchored and landing on a reef or rocks and having your boat split in half and totaled.  So if you don’t know what you are doing, stay on your boat on your dock or mooring and never leave.  Just use it as a floating cottage.

Knowing navigation is a must.  Marc teaches navigation classes.  He knows it inside and out.

Here in Marathon we are roasting, sweating, dripping, dying from the high temps with high humidity.  We had no idea it would be this hot.  Our boat neighbor who lives here year round says “It’s pretty dang hot here for February!”  Mind you this is only the beginning of the hot season.  What happens from April through November?  Do people drop dead right and left if they leave their air conditioned boats or homes?  Speaking of that, we walk and sweat and drip on the hot streets and paths, and then we see Publix or Walgreens.  We step inside and bask in the AC.  We LOVE Publix, and I am starting to love Walgreens.  There is no CVS in Marathon; you have to go down to Big Pine Key to find one.  Which reminds me that we don’t have a car.  We learned right away that when you live on a boat (in one place for awhile) you want to have a car, or some method of transportation other than your feet.  We are very lucky to have Michael and Doreen and their truck! It’s a beautiful Ford F-150 with indescribably wonderful AC.

When we got this boat in 1996 it was a barebones boat.  That’s how a boat built in 1974 was.  No refrigeration, no hot water heater, no cabinets, no AC, no electronics, no bells and whistles.  Marc has added so much to it.  I’m sure the prior owners would never recognize it.  The most obvious addition is that he made it a Yawl.  He made it a 2 masted boat when it was originally 1 mast.  The boat was made both ways, and he got the plans to make it a proper Tartan 34C Yawl, so he didn’t really fool too much with it even though it was a major change from the way the boat was built.  He changed the steering.  He designed an aluminum pedestal that houses the steering, lots of wires for lots of electronics, and a radar screen.  Fred Lewis built the pedestal in his foundry.  He designed a new aluminum cockpit floor which Fred also built.  He designed the davits on the stern that hold the dingy, which Fred also built.  He engineered pulleys to raise the outboard off the dingy and onto a boat railing.  He re-engineered the kitchen, put in a new oven/stove, a microwave, hot water heater, a TV, fans and AC. 

One of the biggest changes that has meant the most, is the refrigeration.  Guess what, the refrigeration for many years was 5 pound blocks of ice.  We had a hole in the deck with a hatch cover through which we put the blocks of ice.  Then we put our food in.  When you wanted food or drink you kneeled down next to the hole, took off the hatch, stuck your head in the hole and fished around for the food.  Now we have TWO REAL refrigerators.  The first came from Grammy to Marc on his BD a few years ago.  It is an ENGEL electric fridge, and it can also function as a freezer (one or the other mode at a time).  It runs off the 12 volt boat power.  It was a game changer.  Then Marc read about Italian boat refrigerators.  They are all the rage on the fancy new boats now.  For $1200 he bought and installed himself (he installs EVERYTHING himself) one of these things.  It’s about 3 feet long and 2 feet tall.  You can stand up a half gallon or gallon of milk, etc. in it!  There is a tray that spans half the space on top for more storage.  We marvel at this thing even today.  I think we’ve had it about 3 years now.  It also runs off the 12 volt boat power.  So we have normal refrigeration now.  No more ice.  No more bending down to look in the hole in the deck with your butt up in the air to fish around in the hole for food or drink.  We have enough 12 volt boat power because he has added 3 solar panels to the boat.

I don’t think AC was a “thing” on boats until recent years.  Certainly it wasn’t up North, and certainly not on a 1974 boat.  Some of us didn’t even have AC in our homes or cars back then.  But in recent years we have found it to be hotter and hotter on the boat, even in VT.  So Marc installed a little 600 BTU AC from Home Depot in the boat.  It is air cooled.  It was great.  The first one died and he put in a second one.  It worked great, until we got to Marathon.  (Though we have never had AC when we are anchored.  The generator is not strong enough to run it.  So at anchor, we roast, sweat, drip if it’s hot.)  The weather here was great in January.  Now we are roasting and sweating and dripping, and we are at a dock and plugged in.  It is so hot here.  At least 150 degrees with the same amount of humidity.  The little AC cannot keep up.  It tries and tries.  It runs 24 hours a day.  It gets us to about 73 overnight, then it cannot keep up during the day.  For instance, it is 11:17am right now and the AC says it is 82 degrees in the cabin.  This afternoon it will say at least 88 degrees.  If we were to turn on the oven or stove or both, the temp in the cabin would be over 90.  But we don’t put the stove or oven on much because neither of us know how to cook. 

Given this extreme heat, Marc has looked into how we can cool the boat down.  There is not a square inch of space on the boat for another air cooled AC, so he has learned about water cooled marine AC.  You can buy a little air cooled AC at Home Depot for $250 but it’s a different story with a water cooled marine AC.  Anything marine requires a visit to a marine store, and anything marine costs an arm and a leg.  At first I was hearing that such an AC would cost $1200-$1400, or at least that’s my side of the story.  Then when he got the quote from the marine AC guy, it was $2700.  And that’s with Marc installing it.  I thought, “Why do we need a quote for an AC?”  Apparently there are numerous parts to be put together for this thing.  So I balked, but then decided we had no choice (except to die).  So Marc has read the installation manual, he has put in a valve for this (had to hire Diver Dave to plug the hole in the bottom of the boat while he put this valve in because some seacock is frozen open), and has installed the wiring and hoses.  Now we just need the compressor.  Hopefully it will arrive before we leave here in 6 weeks.  It is only coming from Tampa, but is not supposed to arrive until next week.  2+ weeks to get something from a warehouse in Tampa?

We also have hot water on the boat, thanks to Marc.  No more washing dishes or faces with cold water!  No more feeling like we are washing up in a cold river.  This is also a game changer. 

We have had a few water hoses blow on this trip.  The other night I was standing by the kitchen sink and heard a big “POOF!”  Then I felt warm water on my feet.  A hot water hose had blown.  So Marc turned off the water and took out the old hose (which happened to be 40 year old tubing for the milking stations from the Gervais dairy farm in East Fairfield, VT) and replaced it with new tubing that has fiberglass reinforcement.  The old milk tube was new when it was put in this boat (by Marc) about 20 years ago.

So to end my first blog entry I want to say that Marc is very talented and a wonderful husband.  He can make/do/fix/rig/figure out just about anything.  We would not be on this adventure but for his many abilities, determination and hard work.

I’ll be back with some updated thoughts at some point (not on Marc’s abilities but my thoughts about this trip!)

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